Day 13 Tuesday 13th September

Cody to Hardin

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We started today by going to the Buffalo Bill Centre of the West - encompassing 5 museums. The first one we looked around was the Draper Natural History Museum, this was really good and interesting with fantastic displays covering all aspects of the greater Yellowstone area. It was here that we reluctantly accepted that 'our' wolf was most likely a coyote, albeit a very healthy one, when a lot are extremely scrawny! Apparently it is very difficult to tell a young wolf from a coyote, so who knows?

Next we moved into the Buffalo Bill Museum, again very interesting, telling the story of his life and all the things he did. It is apparent that the legend is probably greater than the man himself, although he certainly achieved a huge amount.

We also did a quick tour of the Plains Indian Museum, but more to look at the exhibits, rather than read in detail. We also popped out and saw a bald headed eagle. At least we have now seen one, albeit in captivity. We weren't interested in the other 2 museums - Western Art and Firearms, so we gave them a miss.  This centre is affiliated to the Smithsonian.

After quite some time there we then drove back down the road we came in on yesterday, as I had spotted some painted buffalo and wanted a better look. We went and looked over the old trail town, photographed it but did not walk through.... Then we also popped into the Visitor centre, and found out our route to Hardin, confirming that the Beartooth Pass, a possible option, was still closed following the snow of yesterday.

On our way out of Cody, we stopped for a free guided tour at the Mormon Church to see the Cody Murals, a fantastic domed ceiling 36 feet in diameter and 18 feet to the top. The Mural depicts historical scenes from the first 70 years of the Church of Jesus Christ and the Latter-day Saints. There is also an area displaying the story of the colonisation of the Big Horn Basin and the building of the Sidon canal, in order to irrigate the land and enable them to live and grow crops in the area.

We then made our way up to Billings, through vast open, flat spaces of the Wyoming countryside. We saw a few nodding derricks, lots of sagebrush and some cattle and farmland. On passing into Montana, (another new State for us) the area became even more obviously agricultural, lots of huge ranches, lots of crops and more cattle. Billings, what we saw of it looked to be more industrial, but we only visited the Visitor centre on the edge of town, and then got back on the Interstate to make our way to Hardin, located near the site of the Battle of the Little Bighorn - our place to visit tomorrow.

Mileage driven 160 miles

Day 14 Wednesday 14th September

Hardin to Buffalo

 We woke to a grey, low cloud morning, but fortunately this soon cleared and we had good weather again. Our first stop was to Big Horn County Historical Museum. This was very interesting, with exhibits inside and out - lots of buildings brought to this place from all around the area and reconstructed. It was similar to one we visited in Oklahoma last year.

We then made our way to the Little Bighorn Battlefield - our main reason for this loop on our trip. We spent about 5 hours at this National Park site, which encompasses the area of Custer's Last Stand and the whole of the battlefield.

When we arrived we couldn't park in the car park as it was full, and so  instead of going into the Visitor centre and watching the 20 minute video explaining the Battle, we started out on the 5 mile road of the Battlefield. This had informative boards along the way, and at the end we went on the walking loop, about 30 - 40 minutes.

On returning back to the Visitor centre and parking, we were in time to catch the Ranger talk, outside with seating. The Ranger was very knowledgeable, and entertaining, and the 40 minute talk flew by. We then walked up to the Last Stand Hill, where Custer died, and saw the 7th Cavalry memorial and the Indian memorial which was only unveiled on 25th June 2003. Throughout the site, the small white marble markers show where Custer's men had fallen. The Army erected 249 headstone markers in 1890.

It wasn't until 1999 that the National Park Service began erecting red granite markers at known Cheyenne and Lakota warrior casualty sites. Until 10th December 1991 the area was known as the Custer Battlefield National Monument, and the change of name was made by Presidential Law to Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. (GHW Bush).

On returning to the Visitor centre we then watched the video! All in all we think this was a good way around, as we had visited the sites talked about in the video and Ranger talk. A very interesting place.

We then made our way down the Interstate to Buffalo, our stop for the night. We passed from Montana back into Wyoming. The countryside was rolling hills, agricultural, and very pleasant, seeing the Bighorn Mountains and wide open valley basin. Our hotel fpr the night had some great Buffalo paintings, one shown below.

Mileage driven 136 miles

Day 15 Thursday 15th September

Buffalo to Custer

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We started off by driving into the actual town of Buffalo, just to see what was there, as our motel was on the outskirts.  We then set off on the Interstate to Moorcroft, where we turned off to go to Devils Tower. Devils Tower National Monument was the first National Monument of the USA, proclaimed by Theodore Roosevelt in 1906. It is also a very revered place to the American Indians. It really was a most spectacular place. The large volcanic rock looks different depending on where you view it. No side is the same. We saw two climbers having a go at climbing it, mad fools! We also saw prairie dogs playing.

From here we travelled to Sundance, not a lot there,  but a statue of the Sundance Kid. It was here he first spent time in jail and gained the name Sundance Kid. He then went onto be infamous with Butch Cassidy. Perhaps the legend is greater than the pair. It wasn't long after this that we left Wyoming for South Dakota, another new state. It was then back on the Interstate to Spearfish, where we came off to  travel down the Spearfish Canyon. This was very pretty, high sides of rock and vegetation, with our first real sightings of Autumnal colours on the trees. 

We then went into Deadwood, again a very 'Western' town from Cowboy and Indian days. This was where Wild Bill Hickok was killed and Calamity Jane is also buried there. You definitely got the sense of the "wild west" as portrayed in Westerns and Legend. 

From Deadwood we travelled down through a scenic byway to Custer, past a couple of lakes, very pretty route, into the small city of Custer.

Mileage today 299

Day 16 Friday 16th September

Custer State Park and Mount Rushmore

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Started today quite lazily, and it was gone 11 before we left Custer in beautiful sunshine. Our first stop was at the Gordon Stockade, beside Stockade Lake and near lower French Creek. This was built by some of the first white people who came to the area, illegally, looking for gold, following Custer's expedition to see if there was gold in the Black Hills, on behalf of the government. That there was gold was greatly exaggerated by the Chicago press and there followed a mass exodus of prospectors to the area. The stockade was about 10 feet tall, and we didn't think it looked like it would stop the Indians attacking!

Just up the road from this we entered Custer State Park, not covered on our National Park Pass, as it is a State Park. However what we have seen so far, it is well worth the $20. First we stopped at a small lake, very pretty, and so peaceful. There were signs warning us of Turtles crossing the road, but we didn't see any.

We continued in through a very wooded hilly part, and stopped at a lookout. We continued to the Blue Bell lodge where we stopped for lunch. It was a large log cabin, with a big stone fireplace and lots of stuffed elk heads mounted on the walls. The food was good, and considering where it was quite reasonable!

From here we were on to the Wildlife loop, although we had to go off this onto another road in order to find the bison herd. We had seen a couple of loners earlier, but the main herd had been pushed further south, in readiness for the round up that will happen at the end of September, where all the bison will be collected together and inspected. This is when some will be culled, in order to maintain a healthy herd. It seems it is a great spectacle and they expect hundreds of people to come and watch.  It was certainly a great sight to see the herd of over 200 bison milling around at the side of the road.

We returned back to the Wildlife loop, and saw a couple of small groups of pronghorns, some burros - a cross between donkey and mule, some prairie dogs, and later on some wild turkeys. This side of the Park was open grasslands, and rolling hills. At the end of the loop was the new Park Visitor Centre - a fantastic building with some great displays. We also watched a film about the Park, and the bison round up which was really good.

From here we made our way along the Iron Mountain Road to Mount Rushmore. This road was brilliant. It climbs up a long way, and then of course goes down again. It has lots of hairpin bends - they call them switch backs here - it has three tunnels, one of which frames Mount Rushmore as you come through it. These tunnels are narrow and low, so there are only cars and motorbikes on this road. It also has three pigtail bridges, where a part of the road is built on a bridge that goes over the section below, you basically go around in a circle descending under the bridge.

Eventually we make it to Mount Rushmore. What a sight! It is very impressive, and the large car park and visitor centre are very well laid out and complementary to the surroundings. There is a Parade of flags of all the States and then you come out onto the Viewing Terrace. We had a look around the museum, and learnt more about the history of the sculptures, and why the 4 were chosen. First is George Washington, first President of the USA, next is Thomas Jefferson, author of the Declaration of Independence, third is Theodore Roosevelt who ignited progressive causes like conservation and economic reform, and last is Abraham Lincoln, whose leadership restored the Union and ended slavery on US soil.

We knew there was an evening lighting ceremony so had decided to stay for this. Therefore we went into the cafe area for a bit, and then decided to get some warmer clothes from the car and head for the amphitheater about 7 pm for the ceremony at 8. We really didn't know what to expect. From 7:30 onwards there was music played, good stirring patriotic American songs, and then just before 8 a Park Ranger came on to the stage and told us a bit about what would happen. At 8 she came back, and talked about American Independence, telling the history of the war of Independence against the British, and the writing of the Star Spangled Banner, which she recited, as it was written by an American held captive on a British ship during the battle of Baltimore. Certainly we Brits did not come out well with these parts of the US history!!

There then followed a film, Freedom: Americas lasting legacy, again very patriotic and of course included Mount Rushmore. At the end of the film, the sculpture was lit up, and it was a very spectacular sight. Everyone was then asked to stand for the singing of the National Anthem. After this the Park Ranger invited everyone who had served, or was a serving member of the Forces to go down on to the stage for the lowering of the flag. This was done with a party of 6 receiving the very large flag as it was lowered. The Ranger then went around everyone there - more than 100 - and asked them to say their name and which service they had served in. The vast majority were Vietnam Vets. This was a very dignified and solemn end to the evening.

All in all Mount Rushmore lived up to expectations, and was so much more. It really seems to symbolise the American view of Independence, Freedom and so much more.

Mileage today 84

Day 17 Saturday 17th September

Custer State Park and Badlands National Park

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We were heading for the Badlands National Park, and it took us a while to get there. We headed off, cutting through the Custer State Park, where we saw a bison, a pronghorn and 3 white tailed deer. It was then across the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands to Red Shirt a very small settlement on the edge of the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation.  The grasslands was a very large area of undulating, reasonably agricultural land, with  quite a lot of cattle.

From Red Shirt we got our first look at the Badlands.... The road travelled around the edge of the Stronghold Unit - the southern part. We dropped into the White River Visitor Centre, and got a better map, which enabled us to work out the best way to see the rest.

Having worked out our route, one of two options, we headed up to Scenic. Well, what a name for a place - you'd expect great things! Look at the photos of 3 or 4 run down places - and that's it! Our route took us across the Indian Reservation, into the National Park, out again, into the Grasslands, back into the Park and out again and then along a corridor of the Grasslands, with the Indian Reservation on one side and the Badlands on the other.

We stopped off in the bigger Visitor Centre in the North Unit of the Park. The lady on the desk asked us if we were going to do some hiking...we said no. She asked if we were going to do a little walk... We said don't know.... So she gave us the hiking trail sheet and suggested a couple of very short trails. She obviously thought we ought to do one... So we followed her directions and did the Door Trail. This very easy trail, follows a board walk, through a break in the Badlands Wall, known as 'the Door' to a panoramic view of the Badlands. At the end of the boardwalk, there are 12 marker posts out into the Badlands, that we followed, that really gave you a sense of being in the middle of all the rocks, gullies and formations. Although very hot, it was well worth it.

I am not sure what I expected from the Badlands, but it was really spectacular scenery, obviously enhanced by the fantastic weather. The colours in the rock formations were great, and some of the shapes incredible.

We followed the Badlands Loop Road, and stopped off at the various overlooks. Some had better views than others, but it all added to the overall impression of a very long area of rock formations. As we travelled along we saw a bison, some pronghorns, lots of prairie dogs, and a first for us - 3 big horn sheep. This was a great surprise, as we had been looking out for them in more mountainous areas and not seen any, and here they were in a more open area.

The final section we did was on a gravel road, and then we made our way up to small town called Wall. We had been told about the Wall drugstore by a couple at Mount Rushmore last night, so we decided to find it. It was a bit like a posh Trago Mills! There were all sorts of sections, selling all sorts of goods, a cafe and home made ice cream, museum bits, photos all over the place, and we didn't even go into the backyard! I have 2 different leaflets all about it, one complete with map!

We then made our way back to Custer, via Rapid City and onto Hill City and back to Custer. A very nice day with spectacular scenery.

Mileage today 283

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We started off on the same route as yesterday through Custer State Park.  We soon turned off onto the Needles Highway - another of the scenic routes in the Park.

This road started to climb, up through Rocky outcrops, with lots of ponderosa pines and some lovely coloured aspens. We think these trees have turned more autumnal in just the few days we have been here. The first tunnel on this road is Iron Creek tunnel, and we continue to climb after this. The views out to the jagged Cathedral Spires are fantastic. The road was very twisty and narrow, as were the tunnels.

As we start to descend down the other side we go through the Needles Eye tunnel and then see the Needles Eye itself. The views are incredible. This seems to be a popular spot for rock climbers and we see some setting off.

As we drop down a bit lower we come to Sylvan Lake. This is the prettiest place, with lovely sparkling water and blue skies all around, rocky outcrops and pines.

We sit and watch the world go by for a bit, and then decide to stroll beside the lake for a bit. We weren't sure how far it was to go all the way around, but ended up doing so - about 1 mile. However, it was a bit rough underfoot for some of the way, and we were in flip flops and sandals! Probably not the best footwear. About half way around we met some others coming towards us, also in flip flops so at least we weren't the only daft ones! Nearly back to where we started we reached the small shop, so indulged in a ice cream - Sunday afternoons is obviously the time for large ice creams!

As we continue along this road we go through the Hood tunnel and then we were on our way to the Crazy Horse Memorial. This is also being carved out of the granite mountain, but it looks completely different to Mount Rushmore. It has not received any government - State or Federal - funding, and will not. It's mission is to protect and preserve the culture, tradition and living heritage of North American Indians.

Work began on the vast sculpture in 1948, and it is still decades away from completion. Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski, of Polish descent, was invited by Chief Henry Standing Bear to carve the mountain, stating..'my fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know the red man has great heroes, also,'

There is a vast visitor centre complex, with viewing platforms, gift shop, cafes, exhibition areas, Indian museum of North America, displays and a theatre which showed a informative film about the project. We also went on a yellow school bus, down to the bottom of the mountain, where you could get a better view, and see the far side of the sculpture , that hasn't yet had much work done on it. All in all this was a wonderful place to visit, completely different to Mount Rushmore, and just as impressive.

Mileage today 42

Day 19 Monday 19th September

Custer to Gering

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We left Custer this morning and headed off into the Custer State Park for the final time. We were quite surprised not to see the large bison herd just outside the Park, but they have obviously drifted away from the road vicinity. We did see a few stray ones dotted around, along with lots of Prairie dogs over quite a stretch of grassland.

Leaving Custer State Park, which has been a wonderful place to visit, we entered Wind Cave National Park. We had decided not to visit the cave system here, and just enjoy the grassland prairie instead. We saw a coyote purposely making its way along a ridge.

Leaving this Park we make our way South, travelling through an undulating agricultural landscape, lots of cows and crops, much of it sunflowers and sugar beat. We leave South Dakota behind and travel down through Nebraska, similar landscape.

By lunchtime we have reached Alliance, where Carhenge is situated. This is Nebraska's answer to Stonehenge, created from vintage cars, mainly from the 50s and 60s. All the cars are sprayed grey to represent the stones, and it is very effective.

Following this we continue on our way, and reach Chimney Rock mid afternoon. This is a State Park, and the visitor centre has some exhibits and a film about the rock formation and its place in the pioneer trail. The rock formation itself is a mound with a large rock pinnacle sticking up from it.

Following this we travelled onto Scotts Bluff, another set of rock formations. We arrived just after 4:30 and were met by the Park Ranger asking us if we wanted to go on the road up? We replied we didn't know what was here, so she quickly shows us a map and told us we just had time to drive up and have a look, as the road and centre closed at 5. So off we set up the road, the evening sun was lovely on the rocks of the butte we were climbing, there were 3 tunnels through the rock and the views at the top were lovely. We only had time to walk out to one of the overlooks, but it was really good. We got back down again just on 5, so at least we weren't shut in for the night! We then looked at some wagons displayed on the old Oregon Trail that passed through here. 

Today was so different to a week ago, when we were driving through snow at 0 degrees, and today in glorious sunshine at around 30 degrees. We also saw some extremely long trains today, travelling alongside the road - all freight, with what looked like coal. One that was stationery,  took us about half a mile to pass!

We went to eat at the next door Diner, Goonies, which was entertaining. The food was good, and reasonable. It was also a Casino, with 4 tables ready for gambling, with a baize centre and sections for gambling chips. While we were there 3 tables started gambling. There was also a televised gambling/lottery game of chance going on. There were lots of TV screens, mainly sport and 6 Pool tables, as well as an area for live music and dancing.

Mileage today 247

Day 20 Tuesday 20th September

Gering to Estes Park, Rocky Mountains.

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We went back to Scotts Bluff first thing today so we could look around the information centre, watched yet another good video about the area and history as well. We then drove up Scotts Bluff through the 3 tunnels as last night, to have a better look at the top and go out on the vantage point looking South West that we didn’t have time for last night.

Having enjoyed the views off we go back down the wiggly road, then turning left to Gering and soon turning right, to go South to Kimble. The road to Kimble and beyond was very straight for most of the time and quite undulating. It was dual carriage all the way whilst in Nebraska, however as soon as we entered Colorado it was normal two lanes. The prairie we crossed had various crops growing in some of the areas, so much was turned to farm land. However most was open undulating dried grass lands. There were a number of small oil drilling nodding derricks about, and yes some were working! The prairie was hot - 30 degrees even in mid September.

Whilst crossing mainly agricultural land, we came across a large wind farm and also a solar farm - the first we gave seen here so far. We also saw our first flock of sheep, although they were penned in a large area beside the road. Both yesterday and today we actually saw some activity on the land, machinery being operated!

Upon reaching Fort Collins we head off to Estes Park. Fort Collins is a large very modern city from what we could see, very busy and a dormitory for Denver, which was close by.

Leaving Fort Collins we follow the Big Thompson canyon for many miles, lots of road works taking place now and clearly a lot of work already completed to shore up the river bank for the spring floods.

We continue to climb and reach Estes Park, 7560 feet, with a temperature of 26 degrees. We check in and look forward to exploring the Rocky Mountains and the glorious views...

Mileage today 215

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So today we did the north loop of the Rocky Mountain National Park. Leaving Estes Park this morning we stopped off at the Fall Rover Visitor centre, just before entering the Park. We passed Sheep Lakes, but sadly no Big Horn sheep to see today, and onto the Old Fall River road, a 9 mile one way gravel road - only open July to September. This road climbed about 3500 feet, with many twists and turns, and of course plenty of look out spots and driving right on the edge of the slopes.

We stopped off at Chasm Falls, a small waterfall, which we scrambled up to, and then discovered a better path to from a little higher up the road! Eventually we arrived at the end of the gravel road, at Alpine Ridge Trail, where there was a visitor centre, gift shop and cafe, so we had lunch with a fantastic view.

Next we were back on 2 way paved road, and started descending down Trail Ridge road, again lots of lovely views, with plenty of yellow aspen to make me take lots of photos! We crossed the Continental Divide, and descended a bit more before turning around and making our way back up. We will be doing this road again on Friday when we leave the Park.

Returning back to where we had lunch we make our way back on the loop, still climbing. The highest point of the road is 12183 feet. Descending again we are looking out over the other side, back towards where we came from this morning. We saw a few elk by the roadside in a couple of places. We also photographed a couple of 'blue' birds, but we don't know what they are yet. Later found out they are Stellars Jays.

We finally joined up with our road out this morning. A lovely day with lots of wonderful views, and lots of autumnal aspen to admire.

Mileage today 70 - most very twisty with big drops to one side!

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So this morning we set off back to see the Park, first of all entering it the same way as yesterday. Still no big horn sheep. On reaching Deer Ridge Junction, we turned south and and travelled down through Moraine Park and towards Bear Lake. Again the scenery was stunning, with lovely views of mountains, meadows and trees. All along this road there were signs telling us that the car park at Bear lake was full, take the shuttle bus, or come back after 3pm. But we decided to risk it and see if we would be lucky.... But we weren't, and on reaching the end of the road there were no spaces.

So we went back along a little way and managed to get a space at Sprague Lake. This was a lovely area, and we walked around the lake, admiring the views, reflections etc. We also saw our second wedding party, having their photos taken on a small area jutting out into the lake.

Following this we went to the Beaver Meadows Visitor Centre, where we watched the film about the Rocky Mountain National Park, which was very interesting. We discovered that the blue bird we took yesterday was a Stellars Jay, and also heard on the film the elk mating bugle call, and realised that we had heard it quite a bit, and did so again this evening.

We started back towards Estes Park, and stopped off for an ice cream and coffee, and we also saw some elk in the river. Then onto Mary's Lake, which when we got there was not a lot to see - very small and hydro electric pipes everywhere! It was only about 3 o'clock so we decided to try our luck again and head back to Bears Lake.

Day 23 Friday 23rd September

Estes Park to Salida

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Today started off in glorious sunshine, with a clear bright blue sky. We traveled back through the National Park, up the Trail Ridge Road, that we had come down on Wednesday afternoon.  Everywhere you looked, in the valleys or on the mountains, there were wonderful autumnal colours of the aspen, interspersed with the green pines.  As we climbed higher and higher, up to just over 12000 feet, we stopped a couple of times for photos, and it was very windy.

On reaching Leadville, an old mining town, you can just imagine  what it was like in its heyday, it is up very high and still has lots of signs of mining activity. From here we start to drop down and are following the Arkansas river. There are lots of signs for rafting, kayaking and adventure, but there doesn't look to be a lot of water at the moment. The weather starts to improve, although there are very dark clouds all around, and by the time we reach Salida it is raining. On this last stretch we cover about 20 miles that we did last year, after travelling over Independence Pass on our way to Manitou Springs.

Mileage today 220

Day 24 Saturday 24th September

Salida to Antonito including. Sand Dune National Park

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We woke up this morning to see that there was a light dusting of snow on the mountain tops. We set off on our journey, first of all over Poncha Pass, where we were nearly up in the clouds. As we came down into the wide open valley, it was very pretty with the mountain ranges on both sides, and a fertile flat area spreading out in front of us.

We continued for some time on very straight, flat roads, changing from agricultural land to scrub dessert. Every now and again there would be small 'towns', just a few places, very scruffy, or ranches with lots of old vehicles dumped around the place. The mountain ranges on the left made this road spectacular.

We turned off the main road towards the Great Sand Dune National Park - a 19 mile dead straight road in, and we could make out the sand dunes against the mountains behind.

We stopped for petrol just before the Park, and had a coffee and some cherry pie, with a great view looking into the sand dunes and mountains beyond.

On reaching the National Park proper, we went into the Visitor Centre, and watched the film about the Park - very interesting and explanatory about how the sand dunes developed, mainly wind blowing against the mountain range behind. It also explained the whole ecosystem of the area, and how water plays a major part.

We then drove along to the 2 areas we could go by car - first to the Point of no return - after which you needed to have 4 wheel drive. We had some good views of the sand dunes and the mountain rain range behind, from which the snow was melting.

We then went down to the sand dunes car park, and walked out across the flat sand about half a mile and climbed the first, very low ridge. There was a lot of people out and about, and many were either running / rolling down the dunes or 'sledding' on wood boards - standing or sitting. We had read that you needed to hire /buy the ones there, as ordinary plastic sledges did not work, and we witnessed that was the case. Although it was lovely and sunny, there was a chill in the air. It seemed strange walking across sand at about 8000 feet instead of at sea level!

On leaving the National Park, we turned off on a 3 mile, very bumpy gravel / stone track up a mountain towards Zapata Falls. They were certainly right about the bumps! On reaching the top we had some good views back to the sand dunes, over the San Luis Valley, a 100 X 50 mile plain which we had been driving through, picking out the wetlands areas. We did not hike to the Falls, as you have to wade upstream and through caves to get there!

After our bumpy return to the road, we continued along the valley, crossing the Rio Grande river and onto Antonito. Looking forward to our train trip tomorrow.

Mileage today 171

Day 25 Sunday 25th September

Antonito – coach to Chama and return by train

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What a day - fantastic scenery and a wonderful day on the train! We started off by walking around the corner from where we are staying to the Station, collected our pre booked  tickets and boarded the coach waiting there. The first part of the trip was by coach to Chama, taking us just over an hour. The scenery was lovely, and at times we could see the railway track that we would be returning on.

On reaching Chama we boarded our train, in Coach A, the Parlour coach. When booking this we had decided to go for the best option, and this proved to be a great choice. Although this is classed as a Narrow Gauge railway, over here anything under 4 foot 8 and a half inches is Narrow gauge, and this track was 3 feet. The coaches in use were standard gauge, on narrow gauge wheels. The Parlour coach had large, drop down Windows, which we had down for the entire journey. We had comfortable chairs facing out, and could also go out to the back of the coach where the brakeman stands. As part of the package we had complimentary breakfast, snacks, beverages and gifts - a China mug, a tote bag and a pin badge, all bearing the logo.

The coach trip out, as I said, was just over an hour. The return trip by train left Chama at 10 o'clock, and returned to Antonito for 4:40pm, with an hour and a half stop for lunch, also included. This mid day feast at Osier was a turkey dinner and dessert, prepared in an out of the way dining room, off grid - with generators and propane gas!

The scenery was spectacular, climbing high with lots of turns. The coloured aspens make this a very popular trip this time of year. We reached Cumbres, the highest point of the track at 10015 feet. At every point where we crossed a road, there were people stopped taking photos. On reading an excellent leaflet about the route, there were a couple of things we didn't quite get.... The joys of American English! A Trestle is a wooden bridge, built like a trestle. A Docent is a volunteer.

When we stopped at Osier for lunch, there was also the train doing the trip in the other direction. So, the lady we had in our coach looking after us then returned on the other train, and we had the lady from Antonito. She was extremely knowledgeable about the history of the train, and surrounding countryside, and as well as supplying us with drinks etc. on the afternoon section, she told us lots as we were going along.

We had 2 tunnels this afternoon, one rock and one mud, which was lined with wood. We also went along the edge of a gorge, and had even more twists and turns than the morning section. The final part of the journey, nearer Antonito was through high desert, where the pines and aspens changed to sagebrush, and flat plains looking out to the San Luis Valley. We crossed the Colorado / New Mexico border 11 times, once in the morning and 10 times during all the curves in the afternoon.

All in all it was a wonderful trip - hope the next train ride in a couple of days is just as good.

Mileage today - 0

Day 26 Monday 26th September

Antonito to Durango

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We left Antonito and went along the same route as yesterday morning on the coach. I had spotted a nice Ranch gateway, and so stopped and got a photo of it. It is amazing the size of some of the gateways, with absolutely nothing around them - maybe a wire fence either side, and no obvious buildings that they are leading too. Often we have been past them before you know it, so this was a chance to take one.

The drive up and over the mountains was pretty, and as it was still quite early, although the sun was shining and the sky was blue, the temperature dropped to 4 degrees. Our original intention was to catch the morning train at Cumbres, the highest point of the track - but we were there about an hour and a half too early! So, we continued towards Chama, and once we saw the smoke of the engine in the distance, stopped by the road and took some pictures as the train went past.

We stopped in Chama for a coffee and some pancakes - breakfast this morning was somewhat lacking. We continued on, through lovely scenery. Making a slight detour off to see Chimney Rock - another one. This was on the Southern Ute Indian Reservation. You could have a two and a half hour guided tour of the archeological remains of the ancient Pueblan houses at the top of the rocky outcrop, but we decided against this!

We continued on our detour road to Navajo Lake, a large reservoir and part of the Navajo State Park, and sat there admiring the view for a while. Then it was on to Durango, ready for our next train ride tomorrow.

Mileage today - 185

Day 27 Tuesday 27th September

Durango to Silverton by train…… and back

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We set off early to walk into old town Durango - about 20 minutes, having checked this out last night. We get a coffee and croissant for breakfast and then went to the Railway station to get our train. We had booked seats on the Yankee Girl carriage. Once again we had a very helpful and informative hostess, who looked after us both there and back.

The first part of the journey, followed the road for quite a while, as well as the river Animas. The train was quite jerky, and after a while we had an unscheduled stop. We had an overheated engine valve, and so were going to have to stop again while an engineer came out to repair it, at Rockford, the last place that was near the road. We duly arrived there and were allowed off the train while waiting for the engineer. After a delay of about 30 minutes, we set off again. From now till Silverton we were inaccessible by road!

We started to climb and soon were on a section called the high line. It soon became apparent why...... We were high above the river, in a gorge, on a section of track very close to the edge. The scenery again was stunning, with trees, river, mountains all around, the Autumn colours and of course the brilliant blue sky just added to it all.

Eventually we reached Silverton, an old mining town, that had just one paved road. If it wasn't for the cars, you would think you had stepped into an old western movie. Our hostess had told us about various places to eat, and when she mentioned Eurekas, that served pasties, we decided to try it out. Although not quite what we would call traditional, they were very nice, and we've certainly had a lot worse!

The train turned around during the time we had there, so as we had the same seats booked, this meant we were looking out on the other side on the way back. The windows weren't terribly big, and they opened from the bottom, so to take photos, we were having to stick the camera out of the window and take that way.

The journey back , on the other side of the train was equally as interesting, and we have taken far too many photos. On reaching Durango our hostess told us that there was a problem with the gas supply in that part of town, and that many of the restaurants were shut. We decided to try the place right next to the station, where we had eaten last night, and they were serving a 'gas off menu', which included toasted sandwiches, which was plenty enough following our pasty at lunchtime.

Mileage by car - 0