Day 10 - Tiger spotting in Ranthambore National Park -

1 February

After an early lunch it was time for one of the highlights of the trip.....

We experience a true highlight of our trip this afternoon as we head into Ranthambore National Park, one of the best places in the world to spot a wild tiger. Declared a Project Tiger reserve in 1973, the park is a favourite of wildlife photographers and tourists alike, as its large tiger population means it is possible to spot one of the majestic creatures basking in the sun or sauntering through the wilderness. We head out on a game drive to try to catch a glimpse of the elusive tiger, travelling in open-topped safari vehicles called 'Canters' which are for the exclusive use of Great Rail Journeys customers

We were out for nearly 4 hours..... and although we saw lots and it was great....

We didn’t see any tigers. Perhaps we will have better luck early tomorrow morning when we go again.  We saw crocodile, monkeys, various different species of deer, wild boar, and many different types of birds - photos of jay, kingfishers, peacocks and storks. We also saw turtles at the Park, alongside the crocodiles.

It was a great afternoon, although got quite chilly towards the end. At one point there were murmurs there was a tiger on the far shores of a lake..... but if so we certainly didn’t spot it!

The instrument being played is a Ravanahatha - we had this both this morning and evening.

A great day, and let’s hope for a bit more success tomorrow.

No of steps walked today 16683 according to my Fitbit..... although I know for a fact at least 7 to 8 thousand are the jogging of the vehicle this afternoon!

We are treated to a further morning game drive on Day 11, increasing our chances of observing the activities of the stunning tiger, as well as the myriad of other rare native wildlife that can be found here, including leopards, deer and crocodiles.

OMG! What a day!

We met in the  Lobby for 6 am.... to set off again in to the Park.  I finally justified bringing all the extra layers.... it was really cold! I wore: a t shirt, fleece jumper, fleece, padded gilet and padded coat, hat, gloves and scarf and wrapped myself in the fleece blanket supplied....... and travelling along in the open topped vehicle it was still freezing!

We entered the Park just as the sun was rising..... and almost immediately our Park Ranger spotted a leopard in a tree just beside the track. It was extremely well camouflaged, not sure the couple of photos I got will show it as it was still so dark. Apparently it is even rarer to see leopard than tigers. Next was a very small hare, crouched down in the leaves.

Then....... the tiger proved to be extremely elusive! We were in a different zone to yesterday, so saw a different part of the Park. It is all very highly controlled - we even had to take our passports with us, as they sometimes do spot checks to make sure the people on the vehicles are those they are expecting.

As the sun rose it was lovely, but still cold, and the only sign of tigers we saw were two sets of footprints, and a vomit ball of hair! But then, at last one was spotted in long grass the other side of a copse of trees.....  Not easy for photos! But we had seen a tiger! After a short while it walked off back into the grass and our driver quickly turned around and raced around the small lake it was heading for and we had some amazing views of not one, but two tigers coming down to the water to drink!  The morning sun was on them and they looked absolutely splendid.

It was certainly worth the approx. 7 hours (yesterday and this morning) of bum numbing, bone jangling, bouncing around and freezing cold. My Fitbit reckoned I had walked over 15000 steps this morning!

A few other animals we saw today were: peacocks, deers, antelope, wild boar, crocodile and various birds.... all in all a wonderful morning.

So back at our hotel... breakfast, shower, pack and we left the hotel at 12:30 for the long and bumpy road to Jaipur, arriving just after 5. It is fascinating watching the world go by on the coach...... the people, vehicles, animals, colour , noise and chaos!

At one point quite close to Jaipur, a new flyover bridge is being constructed to go over the railway tracks...... we queued about half an hour to get over the tracks, and then we stopped right on them for a bit!

Jaipur is known as the Pink City, the old town walls are painted, more of a terracotta colour with white frescos, and we will be exploring it more tomorrow.

No of steps walked today - 20764..... but more like 4000! It has been a sitting and shaking day....not walking!

Day 12 - Jaipur - 3rd February

We begin our stay in the 'Pink City' with full-day sightseeing tour, travelling by Jeep to the Amber Fort, located high on a hillside overlooking a lake. We have the chance to explore some of the ornate rooms within the palace complex before we continue our tour, seeing the ornately decorated City Palace, home to the current Maharajah of Jaipur, as well as the early 18th century UNESCO listed Astronomical Observatory. We also drive past the Palace of the Winds, a stunning red and pink facade built in 1799, whose intricately latticed windows were designed to allow the ladies of the royal household to look over the streets below without being seen.

We left our hotel by coach, heading back into the old city of Jaipur, through the gates of the city walls and into some lovely architecture...... all coloured this lovely terracotta/pink. We passed The Palace of the Winds, a very impressive structure.

On reaching Amber, we could see up on the hills, the fort and walls....... slightly reminiscent of  the Great Wall of China the way it went up and down the hillside.... but nothing like as long - 13km in total. The high fort was used for the soldiers, and we were visiting the Palace area, used by the Maharajahs and their families. This fort has never been attacked, and so has most of its original decoration on the walls, which was lovely.

To get up into the fort, high on the hillside, we transferred to jeeps - this time they were actually jeeps not taxis. You can also go up on an elephant, but our tour company doesn’t use them anymore..... you would also have to walk back down! We did see the elephants, well decorated, but they are not actually found naturally in this part of India. It’s difficult to know how well they are treated, but our guide told us that each elephant does only 5 trips up each day, and then they are rested.

We had a good look around this fort, however the views out from the top were limited due to the heat haze - a complete contrast today to our trip yesterday morning! Back into the jeeps to return down again, and continue on the coach back to Jaipur.

From here we went to the City Palace, a small area of which is now open to the public, and where the flags flying above showed that the current Maharaja of Jaipur was ‘at home’! Again this was very lovely architecture and decoration.

We also had a demonstration of how to tie a turban, wow so much cloth!

From here it was back though the old town, seeing the Palace of the Winds again, plus the walls and through another gateway of the old city. And so back to our hotel after another busy day.

No of steps walked today 8462

Day 13 - Jaipur to Delhi

4th February

Following breakfast this morning, you have some time at leisure to continue exploring Jaipur, before we check out and transfer by road to Delhi. .

On arrival in Delhi later this evening we check in to the hotel and enjoy our final dinner together this evening..

This was our itinerary for today......so the other night at dinner, our table of 8 asked if there was a possibility of getting back to Delhi in time to visit Raj Ghat, the cremation and memorial site for Ghandi, that was shut when we were supposed to have visited.

So, we left the hotel, and Jaipur, at 9 am, to travel the 250+km to Delhi, finally arriving in the parking lot for Raj Ghat about 3:30pm! The roads here are not good! Very busy, even the ‘motorways’ which are tolled, and still people drive in whichever lane they want, often more than one at the same time. Although our driver weaved his way around the road and other vehicles, mainly lorries on the main road, it was a reasonably smooth ride. A necessity for driving in India would be to know the width and length of your vehicle, and where the horn is!

 The entire route from Jaipur was mainly though built up areas, some farms and crops, and always animals.... seeing monkeys, antelope, camels, cows, dogs, goats.

Upon reaching Raj Ghat, and walking around the memorial we were so glad to have got here.... it was an understated memorial, and all the better for being so. Generally speaking Hindus don’t build memorials, as they believe after death they are reborn, so the only memorials built are for Royalty and other important people...prime ministers etc.

When Ghandi was assassinated, on 30 January 1948, millions of his followers flocked to Delhi, and this area was decided upon for his cremation, and subsequent memorial. Within the large park area, there are more leaders also commemorated/cremated here.

So, tomorrow we are being let loose on our own....  being collected from the hotel at 6am! The rest of the group get a lie in, some being collected for 7/7:30, most not leaving until 9:30, to return to the UK.

No of steps walked today 5673

Day 14 - Delhi to Amritsar

5 February 2020

One of India's most religiously significant cities, alluring Amritsar is nestled just a stone's throw away from the border with Pakistan. Amritsar is most famed for the incredible Golden Temple, the holiest Sikh shrine in the world, which welcomes pilgrims and visitors the world over in numbers that could rival even the Taj Mahal.

So, today has been another long day! We were collected from our hotel in Delhi at 6 am..... we came down a bit early and the rep was already there, so we were in the car and leaving the grounds by 5 to 6. Traffic was actually reasonably quiet at that time of the morning and we were on the platform waiting for our train by 6:15....... only problem being the train wasn’t  due to leave until 7:20! It was a 6 and a half hour journey....... going through similar landscape to that we have already seen........ so took the opportunity to try and catch up on some sleep!

On arrival at Amritsar the next rep was there waiting on the platform for us......it really is a good service being provided. We were taken to our hotel and had free time till being collected at 8:30pm for the evening ceremony at the Golden Temple......which we have just returned from. Wow!

Ami, our guide for tonight and tomorrow, is really nice and I’m sure we are going to learn lots as she is very passionate about this place, which is great. We had to walk the last stretch to the Temple, which was interesting....she had warned us about pickpockets.

Before we set off walking we had to buy head scarves each 10 rupees each - about 11p! They are saffron coloured, which is the most holy colour. Everyone has to cover their head, arms and legs, but remove their socks and shoes to enter the Temple.

Seeing this area, all lit up was absolutely stunning...... it will be great to see it again in the morning. We were inside the large courtyard area before 9, and the actual ceremony is from 9:30 to 10 pm...every night. So we had a chance to walk right around the four sides of the courtyard......seeing the Temple reflection in the lake. Ami then took us up some steps to look at the special room where the Holy Book is ‘put to bed’, before getting us The prime position at the barrier to watch.

The ceremony starts with a cloth being put down on  the ground, then the carriage being brought in by many men and rested on the cloth. All the layers of bedding are stripped off, and clean bedding put on, patted down with cloths  with cleaning spray..... which they also used to wipe the carriage. It was all incredibly precise. Then they  started to decorate the carriage with flower garlands... again very precisely. They also chanted holy words whilst this was happening, led by the head priest. When everything was ready they processed into  the Temple, to collect the Holy Book. We then had to wait about 15 mins before the procession came out with the book on it’s bed! This was preceded by a trumpet blower, and the banging of a drum.

Day 15 - Amritsar - 6 February 2020

After breakfast you will be taken for a half day tour of Amritsar. .

Visit the Golden Temple, the spiritual nerve-centre of the Sikh faith. Also called Harmandir, the temple is made of white marble and copper gilt with its dome covered with gold leaf. Later, visit the historic Jallianwala Bagh, which commemorates the hundreds of innocent Indians killed or wounded by British bullets in the most notorious massacre under their rule. Also see the beautiful Ram Bagh Garden..

In the afternoon, you will be taken to Wagah Border to witness the closing ceremony. Sunset experience - Wagah, an army outpost on Indo-Pak border between Amritsar and Lahore, is an elaborate complex of buildings, roads and barriers on both sides. The daily highlight is the evening "Beating the Retreat" ceremony. Soldiers from both countries march in perfect drill, going through the steps of bringing down their respective national flags. As the sun goes down, nationalistic fervour rises and lights are switched on marking the end of the day amidst thunderous applause..

Ami collected us from our hotel at 10 this morning....and we returned to the Golden Temple, first donning our very becoming saffron headscarves. It was quieter here than last night, but equally as impressive in the morning sunshine.....I was afraid it might not be as impressive in daylight. First off we joined the queue to go into the Temple itself, - no photos allowed there. We shuffled our way along the walkway out into the lake, and followed the crowd around .....first of all the ground floor where the gold book that we saw being put to bed last night, was on display, well decorated with flower garlands etc. There is constant singing/chanting of holy hymns, from 2am to 10 pm every day, done by 3 of 15 men rotating every hour and a half! They also played what looked like a cross between a harmonica and piano accordion, and a drum.

Up to the next two levels and there were priests with a written copy of the holy book. Everywhere there were people praying, reading their holy book, contemplating.....  for many they have  saved a long time to be able to visit.

Following our Temple visit we set off around the courtyard again, that edges the holy lake. These buildings were only constructed about 2 years ago, when the Punjab government moved the small traders etc away, giving them compensation, and generally tidying the area up into what is now  a very attractive area.

In one of the side rooms we saw another man reading from the holy book...... men pay to be able to do this.....they read for so long, then someone else takes over, until the book is completed.... and then the whole cycle starts again! These books also have ‘beds’..... but  not sure when they are used.

We also saw men bathing in the holy lake..... they  believe that if you bathe in it/or drink the water that it cures all ills. There are also 3 enclosed areas where women can bathe.

Next was the Kitchens.... we had seen these on various tv programmes..... unbelievable! Hundreds of volunteers every day prepare vegetables, make chapatis, serve food, wash dishes. There are two floors, each can seat 1000 people at a time to eat.....we also went up another level to see the chapati machine, donated by a Canadian..... which has speeded up the bread making process.....Although a lot are still made traditionally......I had a go at rolling them....not easy.

Making our way out of the Temple area, we notice how much busier it has got in the hour or so we have been there.

After a wonderful visit to the Temple, we walked back through the old town and visited Jallianwallah Bagh, the site of the horrendous massacre by the British. To say this was a building site is no understatement...... the whole of the gardens and pools surrounding the memorial are under renovation..... I am sure they will be lovely when completed..... I think Ami said due to be mid April but there looked to still be a lot to do, and they don’t  seem terribly fast workers!

We walked back to the car and then visited another co-operative type craft place, with rugs, carpets, clothes, embroidery, etc. etc. Then a break for lunch before setting off for the Wagah border with Pakistan.

The Wagah border with Pakistan.Well, if we thought a ceremony to put a book to bed was different ..... this was something else! Every day, before dusk, there is a half hour ceremony on both sides of the border by the Indian Border Security Force and the Pakistani Security. This is a hard border, and patrolled.... you would be shot at if caught trying to cross illegally.

We had to take our passports so that we were allowed into the VIP lane to get into the Foreigners Gallery. It was a bit like a sports arena, with a road running through the centre, with the gates and border fence crossing it. Tiered seating...some chairs some steps ....and lots of people and noise. We were seated by 3:15...... the ceremony is 4:30 till 5...... at 3:30, music started blaring out of the loudspeakers, both sides.... but different music! Talk about trying to outdo each other. We did see people with their suitcases crossing the border..... in both directions, which surprised us a bit, so it is obviously not just a ceremonial crossing.

At about 4:15, no one more was allowed in, and one of the BSF acted as a bit of a ‘warm up’ for the crowd, really increasing the noise level. Once the actual ceremony began, there was a lot of posturing by guards on both side, facing each other off and trying to outdo each other in their strange marching....... they would be at home with John Cleese and the Ministry of Silly Walks!

Eventually, the lowering of the flags started.....I have never seen a flag lowered so slowly..... to what sounded a bit like a strangulated version of the Last Post. At 5 it was all over, and we joined the mad throng to make our way out and back to the car. It really was amazing but most strange...... and exceedingly noisy.

Day 16 - Amritsar to Varanasi

7 February 2020

Also known as the 'Eternal City', Varanasi is a burst of colour right on the banks of the sacred River Ganges, and is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities. You are able to immerse yourself in the cultures and traditions here, where the important moments in life and death are played out for all to experience.

So, this morning we were collected from our hotel for 5am!....... to get to the airport for our double hop flight.... Amritsar to Delhi, then Delhi to Varanasi. By the time we’d met up with the rep here in Varanasi and checked in to our hotel that was the morning gone. The trip from the airport gave us a little taste of what the traffic was like here....... but then this evening we experienced even more. We thought Delhi was crazy...... but this is even more mad, frenetic, noisy, and absolutely overrun with motorbikes.

We were collected by our guide at 4:45 to go to the evening ceremony at the Ganges...... it was really difficult for our driver to get through the streets..... people, bikes, rickshaws, motorbikes, tuk tuks, cars everywhere......and eventually we got out and walked.

There is a stretch of the river  bank 7km long with The Ghats situated on...... Ghats are steep steps down to the river.....and every  evening at sunset a Hindu  ceremony takes  place giving thanks to the river. We walked down to the river and went out on a boat....... lots were motor but ours was rowed..... there were loads out.

First of all we went down away from where the Aarti ceremony would take place to the cremation area....... right on the banks of the river, crowded and with 15 to 20 funeral pyres burning. The Hindus believe that if the body is cremated at the Ganges then they are  released from the birth, death, rebirth cycle, and will move to a higher place. When someone dies the body is prepared , wrapped in a white shroud, placed on a bamboo stretcher, and decorated in a brightly coloured shroud and flowers.....Then brought to the cremation site, where a fire is built, and the family have to buy the ‘holy flame’ from the crematorium owner....who is a very rich man! They cannot just use any source of fire. Only men come to the cremation...... women and children are not allowed. It was a very strange experience....... sitting on a boat, amongst lots of other boats, looking onto the bank where there were all these fires burning.....and knowing you were witnessing what was a very emotional and private event in these peoples lives, and yet in lots of ways because there were so many happening in the same place, at the same time, that took away the privacy and it sort of felt ok to be watching.

Day  17 - Varanasi - 8 February 2020

Early this morning you will be guided for a boat ride on the holy river Ganges and stroll of Old Benaras City..

You return to the hotel for breakfast and later you will be guided for a city tour of Varanasi including a visit to Bharat Mata Temple and Benaras Hindu University (BHU) followed by a visit to Sarnath. Here Lord Buddha preached his first sermon after enlightenment and revealed the eight fold path, the Buddhists doctrine..

Visit Chaukhandi Stupa, Ashok Pillar, Dhamek Stupa, Dharamika Stupa, Dhamek Stupa, and the Archaeological Museum

Also known as the 'Eternal City', Varanasi is a burst of colour right on the banks of the sacred River Ganges, and is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities. You are able to immerse yourself in the cultures and traditions here, where the important moments in life and death are played out for all to experience.

So, we were collected at 6:15am this morning for our first stint of sightseeing today...... returning to the Ganges, traffic much quieter this early in the morning. Most of the small shops and stalls were shut, but a few were still open for business. All along the way we passed lots of people walking towards the river.... these pilgrims come from all over, Hindus try to visit the Ganges at least once during their lives.

On reaching the main Ghat, where we were last night, it was busy.... looking quite different in the early morning light, the sun just beginning to come up. Back on the river in a smallish boat, and we head up river, past where we saw the Aarti ceremony last night. All along the way we could see people bathing in the river..... along the steps where last night the priests were chanting and singing, this morning there were priests sat under umbrellas praying.

People come and leave their belongings with the priests while they bathe, then collect their dry clothes to change into...... and no doubt pay the priests for the privilege!

A bit further on we saw a Temple, built by South Indians, and so pilgrims from that area come to this place to bathe. In Varanasi there are more than 5000 Temples! In fact, we are feeling a little bit ‘templed out’!

Further up river again and we come to another crematorium site...... where there is also a building with chimneys..... a gas fired crematorium..... which is only used by those who are poor , - (it costs 500 rupees there or at least 20000 rupees for open air! ) the not so religious and anyone unclaimed by family that the state have to deal with.

On the shoreline there were still a few small piles of ash burning, and a few men clearing the area, before today’s funerals start up again.

We asked our guide about these very public events.... funerals and bathing, and he said that there is always lots of people around, and each person is concentrating on themselves and not really aware others are watching.

Returning back to the Ghat, we have a walk around the old town......very narrow streets...some not even with motorbikes! Eventually we come to see the Golden Temple...... our guide had been comparing it to Amritsar, in as much as this was ‘THE’ Temple for Hindus to visit on their pilgrimage, and the gold was given by the same Maharajah as the Amritsar one....... well, it was not really a comparison. No photos are allowed of it, even outside, and he had already told us we wouldn’t be going in - seemed a very complicated and expensive business if we had wanted to! So, we saw it from a side view, behind guarded fencing and a demolition site! It appears the State is compulsorily clearing the area around it, and trying to open out the area and make it more attractive ( actually that bit does seem to be familiar with Amritsar that has already done that).

We continued to meander through the old streets, which were definitely coming to life as the morning progressed.

Once back in the car our guide suggested we continued with the city  tour now, instead of after breakfast before the traffic got too bad. We were going to the South side of the city to see the University campus...... he reckoned later in the day that could take 2 hours each way!

The University occupies a huge area, and is very spacious, with large attractive buildings for the faculties. It is considered to be the best University in India, and has 35000 students.

Coming back across the city more and more Temples were pointed out to us.

This afternoon we visited Sarnath, situated about 10km outside Varanasi. This is the place for Buddhist pilgrimages, being the place where Buddha first preached following his enlightenment. Our guide told us that Buddhism grew out of a desire to simplify Hinduism, and be more true to beliefs rather than following what the priests told you to do.

It was very interesting looking around the Temple, and there were lots of things here reminding us of our time in China and Tibet, although in other respects things seemed more simplified and less ornate.

We also visited the Museum which had artefacts unearthed in the archeological excavations, as well as the excavation sites. Buddhism, although originating here, died out in India for several hundred years and was reintroduced in the 19th Century from Sri Lanka.

The Stupas are memorials, for remembrance of events, or to hold relics, and there was one large one still standing.....although it is not as big as it was originally.

Day 18 /19 Varanasi to Delhi to home

9 /10 February 2020

Well two days of travelling mainly. After breakfast in Varanasi we sat in the  garden by the pool in the lovely sunshine listening and watching the wedding arrangements / preparations going on. Three weddings were being held that day in the hotel. Lots of people working - none looking very busy or productive!

We were collected on time and off to the airport... No problems, flight a little late and we arrived in Delhi. Here we were met and taken to the hotel.

Next morning again met and taken back to the airport.... left about an hour late and arrived at Heathrow an hour late. Long landing run, a bit bumpy although not as bad as we were expecting due to storm Ciara. We watched films on the flight which made it pass.

Home for 11pm. So that’s it, our 19 day trip to India is done.