Vienna - 1st to 8th December 2017

Day 1 - Vienna 1st December 2017 - Christmas Markets

Leaving that Market behind, we wandered on towards the Votivkirche, a church that looks similar, but much smaller, to St Stephen's Cathedral,  in the centre of Vienna, that we then strolled on to.

We made it to the centre, and St Stephens cathedral. It has a lovely patterned roof, and some of the stone has obviously recently been cleaned. By this time, with the sun not on us so much we were starting to get a bit chilly, so we tried our first coffee shop.

Back to our hotel, through the Market around the cathedral, and via the Underground, for a brief rest, before walking back to the Market nearby to get some tea. By this time, having got dark, the Christmas lights were twinkling brightly, and it was much busier. We found a stall selling soup in bread baskets. The loaves were about six to eight inches in diameter, with the top cut off and the bread hollowed out. This was then filled with soup, we went for goulash, and the top put back on. The bread was lovely and soft and fresh, and quite crispy on the outside. This had to be followed by a mulled wine before returning to our hotel.

We set off from our hotel bright and early, ...well about 9:30, on a sunny morning, to walk to the Spanish Riding School. It didn't seem too cold to start with, but I think we were still feeling the effects of the very warm hotel, as after a short time we began to feel the chill in the air. We walked down past the Town Hall, through Volksgarten, a well laid out Park, and onto Michaelerplatz. A few stalls were beginning to open up there, and as we were about to go through the high arched entrance under the dome to collect our tickets for the Lippizaner horse show, we were accosted by a man trying to interest us in tickets for a classical concert this evening.

We went and collected our tickets and found out where we had to go for the performance, and when. Strolling back out to the Square we decided that if we were ever going to go to listen to classical music, it might just as well be in Vienna, where so many of the composers lived and wrote their music. So we bought the tickets, and had a €10 discount as Seniors! He didn't ask how old we were!

By this time we didn't have much more time to kill before returning for the Spanish Horses. Once in the very large building where the performance would be staged, we were glad we had paid the extra money for seats at the front end, as these were on a level with the arena. The long sides , where there was seating and standing were quite a height above, and the next level up even higher. Unfortunately you were not allowed to take photos of the performance, so we only have some of the arena before the start, showing the magnificent candelabras.

The Spanish horses, or Lippizaner horses are pure white. Some of the younger horses are varying shades of grey, but as they mature they turn white. They are highly trained in dressage, and pirouetting and jumping, and as they perform to music - our first taste of classical today - they really look like they are dancing. The riders are all dressed in traditional uniform of long brown tailed jackets, cream breeches, high black boots, cream gloves and an odd shaped black hat with a gold braid design.

The first part was some younger horses and trainee riders, who all seemed to perform well. The next ones were fully trained, and the third part was the 'above ground' section, where they went up on hind legs and jumped. For this a couple were being ridden, and the others had either one of two people walking alongside the horses and leading them. The next part was just one hires being controlled by a man with reins walking directly behind it - rather him than me!  The final section was eight horses and riders again doing intricate manoeuvres around the arena.

Following the show we decided to find where we had to go for the concert this evening. Walking along down the street we came across the stables for the horses and them being led back across the road to another part, so managed a few photos, although not done up in all their fancy tack.

We had lunch in a great little Italian restaurant, which was fun..., first of all we were presented with a card - like a credit card... this was to put all our purchases on.... a bit like a pre paid card, but paying on exit. Then there were 3 different food stations, pizza & lasagne, pasta and risotto and salad and something else. You went up to choose what you want and it was cooked while you waited!  And very good it was too!

After a great lunch we did our first hop on and off bus route. We did the route around the city centre and got to learn some of the history. We thought maybe we would freeze on the top of the box, but they were all enclosed, and the first one we went on had far too much heating on! We were lucky to get seats right at the front and had a brilliant view.

Having returned to the Opera house having completed the red route, we swapped buses and went on the orange route, again sitting right at the front. This route took us out to Schonbrunn , the summer Palace, which we will visit later.

Completing this circuit, we then wandered along and found a traditional Viennese coffee shop, that had been established in 1891.  Having ordered, I read the menu, which gave a brief history of the shop, the people who had owned it and of the different things they sold.

After killing a bit of time, we eventually went to the Haus der Musik where the evening concert was being performed. We went up about 4 floors in a glass lift and into a small , almost triangular shaped room with a small stage, just slightly raised. I would think there was about 120 people in the audience, and the ensemble consisted of a piano, double bass, cello and 3 violins. The first section was mainly Mozart, with a couple of pieces accompanied by a soprano opera singer, one as a duet with a tenor.

The second section was mainly Strauss junior. This part also included the singers, plus another soprano and tenor, and a  ballerina. They played mainly well known pieces and it was a very enjoyable evening.

So, having set off from our hotel at about 9:30 this morning, we hadn't anticipated not returning until about 10:30 this evening! A long but enjoyable day!

Day 4 - Vienna 4th December 2017 - Schonbrunn

So today Phil was not so good and decided he needed to stay in the hotel. I very bravely decided to go and explore on my own! So off I went, catching the tram and then the yellow line to Schonbrunn, one of the few places we had visited before - so he wasn’t so disappointed to miss it.

Our Vienna Pass gave me entry to the Summer Palace and an audio guided tour of the rooms. Again photos were not allowed, although I did sneak a couple! Couldn’t resist taking one of a chandelier being cleaned -  made me think of Only Fools and Horses! There were a few rooms with people in cleaning, and signs up to say that the annual deep clean was taking place.

The rooms, although very high, were mainly quite small, although there were one or two large reception rooms. They were very ornately decorated. The audio guide was good, giving you enough information, but not too much!

Once outside again, I took a stroll around the Christmas Market in the large open area to the side of the Palace. Being  a weekday it was much quieter, which made it much easier to browse and actually see what the stalls had on offer, which was nice.

I then walked through the Gardens and up to the Gloriette, a pavilion on top of a hill with magnificent views back to Schonbrunn and Vienna behind. It was so different to the last time we were here which was August, today the flower beds and trees were all bare, snow on the ground, the fountains turned off and the pools frozen. The steep climb up to the Gloriette was worth it, fantastic views and a coffee and cake to celebrate. While drinking my coffee it started to snow,  and the view disappeared, but luckily it had stopped again by the time I was ready to walk back down.

I finished my tour of the Market stalls, and back out to the road to catch the bus. The route back to the centre, took me along the gurgle, a road running parallel to the inner ring road, but a bit further out. Again it was developed from City fortifications and has  many large blocks of apartments built early in the 20th Century as social housing.

The route then circles the main tram station, a newly built station replacing 2 stations that were side by side. There is still a lot of building work going on there, with not only the station, but housing, offices and over 100 shops.

Eventually the bus returned to the Opera house and I changed back to the tram to bring me back to the hotel. A little later we went to a restaurant just along the street from our hotel for dinner.... and had quite an authentic Austrian meal

Day 5 - Vienna 5th December 2017 - Hofburg

The weather had changed.... not quite so cold, the snow on the ground had gone, and it was a bit wet. We set off on the tram, getting off after just a few stops to visit the Hofburg Palace, the main residence of the Habsburg dynasty. As we went towards the entrance we saw a military guard standing to attention, who then started playing the Italian National Anthem, followed by what we assume was the Austrian Anthem. A couple of people then walked past, got in a car and were escorted by the Police out of the area. Not quite sure what it was all about. 

We then went into the Hofburg and visited the Imperial Silver collection, the Sisi museum and the Imperial Apartments. We could take photos of the Silver collection, which, as you will see, also included vast amounts of china, glass and , in fact, anything to do with eating and table decoration.  It was extremely well displayed, and the quantity of stuff unbelievable.

The Sisi museum is all about Empress Elisabeth and the various myths surrounding her life.  She  was the wife of Emperor Frank Josef, the last Austrian monarch. The Imperial Apartments were splendid, and similar to those I saw yesterday at Schonbrunn.

Our next stop, following a coffee and cake, was to The Albertina. This was the largest of the private Habsburg residences, and now has a large collection of art, Monet to Picasso. There are also 21 authentically restored rooms of State Apartments. The art exhibition was interesting, but reiterated our belief that we are not art lovers! The first level was devoted to Raphael, definitely not our cup of tea, the second to the more recent Monet, Picasso, Matisse and other Impressionist artists, some of which which were better than others! Although who decides what is Art and how much it is worth is beyond me!

On our way to our next port of call we stopped by St Stephens Cathedral.... and decided the exterior is far more impressive, with its interesting roof, than the rather dark interior.

After this we went to the Time Travel Vienna, a journey through time from the Romans in Vienna to present day. It was very cleverly done, with a range of different media, a 5D film, a ride, light and sound shows, animated dummies and an air raid shelter!

So, a day of cultural museums and exhibitions, finished off by a couple of glasses of wine and cake, and later a meal, before returning to our hotel by tram.

Day 6 - Vienna 6th December 2017 - Views, Museums & Prater Park

The rain had gone today, and we set off for Prater Park, catching the Underground. As we came out of the station at Prater, the hop on off bus was there, so we decided to get on and start the Blue route, before going into the Park. This route took us around parts we hadn't yet seen, and we stayed on, crossing over the River Danube, the old and new route of the River and the flood divert route.

We got off the bus at the Danube Tower. The lift should take you up to the Observation deck, 150m in 35 seconds, but because of the high winds today this was slowed down! We braved the wind and went out to the open air deck to look around 360 degrees. It was certainly hard to stay upright in some places!

We then went up a further 10 m to the revolving cafe, and had cake and coffee, with fantastic views. From here we could look out over the UN city, a new area of mainly high rise buildings housing the United Nations centre here.

So back down to the bottom of the Tower, back on the bus and around to Prater Park. The main attraction here for us is the Giant Ferris Wheel, which although we had been on it before, was definitely something to do again. This was built in 1897 and gives wonderful views over the City.

Coming off this, the Prater train was standing in the Square, so we decided to go on this, as it was covered in our pass. We were the only people on it, and it was quite weird having a tour around this large amusement park, that was mainly closed! You could imagine the crowds and bustle that would be there in the summer, but it was eerily quiet today.

We then caught the Underground back into the centre and got off by the Museum Quarter, and walked down through to the Hofburg, seeing some new areas and some parts which we saw yesterday in the rain. We visited the Imperial Treasury which has crowns, and all sorts of other regalia and robes from the past.

Walking back out through the Hofburg buildings, and admiring all the Christmas lights on the buildings and streets, we found ourselves in a very upmarket street.... not sure why we decided this would be a good place to eat, but it was very nice, and a old traditional Viennese place, rebuilt I’m 1901, but a bit expensive.

We walked back towards the Ring Strasse and then saw a tram for Prater, and decided to catch it, and see the Park at night. However, after quite some time we got to the end of the line, and weren't where we thought we would be! So we waited till it started back to where we had come from. We got off at the bottom of the Christmas Market near our hotel, walking up through and having a warming punch while we went.

Day 7 - Vienna 7th December 2017 - Applestrudel show & Belvedere

So our last day in Vienna was sunny and a little bit warmer.....we didn’t put on our hats and gloves all day! We set off on the Yellow line of the hop on /off bus, heading for Schonbrunn. We were going to see the Applestrudel show! This is held down in the cellars of the bakery, and was very interesting. The pastry was already made, but we were shown it being rolled out and then stretched by flipping it like a pizza dough and then by using the whole of the forearms. To keep stretching it, without making any holes in it! 

Once the pastry was fully stretched, the filling was put in and then the whole thing rolled. The 20minute demonstration was conducted in German and English, by a very fast speaking girl, as she showed us how to make this Austrian delicacy. We had a small slice of strudel included, along with the recipe, and of curse the opportunity to buy all of the ingredients.

Following this we get back on the bus, for a very slow journey onto the Belvedere Palaces - both Higher and Lower. These both house Art collections now, and looking around them was interesting, but most of the works really were not on our idea of art! The most famous painting there was Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss.

Outside there was another Christmas Market, and a lovely tree made from wooden Sledges...very clever. The Gardens were also nice to walk through, although obviously quite bare, particularly with all fountains turned off for the winter.

We walked from Belvedere back towards the centre in the late afternoon, and then caught the tram. As we were waiting for it, there was a lot of activity with

Police vans, about 8 or 10, lights flashing and sirens going. They were trying to get through the early evening traffic, and eventually raced down the tram lines! A few minutes later, we could hear more sirens, and more Police vans come racing past, we counted 23. We never found out what it was all about, but it added a little excitement to the cold wait for the tram.

We finished the evening off by going to the restaurant just down the road from our hotel for a last Austrian meal. We did wander down to the Market afterwards, but the stalls were just about all shut by then, so we returned to our hotel to pack.

Day 8 - Vienna 8th December 2017 - Home

An early start this morning in order to get to the airport. The weather was very grey and visibility not very good. We set off on the Underground, and were surprised that it wasn’t as busy as we thought it would be for that time of the morning. 

We soon reached the Train station for the Airport train, and then checked in for our flight back to Bristol, which was a bit late taking off.  On reaching Bristol, we let Rachel know we had landed, and she came and collected us... with fantastic timing as we saw her drive into the car park as we walked into it! 

No pictures today!